Recently, Global Goals Week prompted us to reflect on the progress made thus far towards achieving the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), which were adopted by United Nations member states in 2015. These goals provide a high-level framework for social progression and range from promoting gender equality, to mitigating climate change, to eradicating poverty.
Beyond Green – while primarily operating as an advisory business in sustainability – also aims to promote inclusivity. In our latest annual report, we shared how we’ve continued to invest in our accessibility work over the last year. We’re currently piloting a Universal Design for Workshops framework to build accessibility into our project delivery at each step. We are also currently piloting a four-day working week.
As part of our drive to be a business for good, we believe it’s our job to start difficult conversations. So, prompted by Global Goals Week, we wanted to discuss the clothing industry. The following blog describes the fast fashion business model and its implications, while outlining how a transition away from this throwaway culture would align with many of the SDGs.
The Hidden Costs of Fast Fashion
Fast fashion uses cheap factors of production to mass-produce affordable clothing (see Further Reading item 1). Such items tend to be low-quality, trend-led pieces of clothing with short lives. This model has been adopted by retail giants such as Zara, Topshop and H&M. Low prices have been made possible by low wages and the inability of policymakers to regulate the environmental damages of fast fashion. Due to the profitability of the business model, brands have been hesitant to pursue greener methods of production (2).
The clothing industry is estimated to account for around 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions (3), which is five times more than aviation. High emissions are driven by complex supply chains within which goods are transported internationally throughout various stages of production. Despite the transportation involved, the majority of the emissions stem from the copious amounts of energy used in garment production. For example, China burned coal to produce 57% of its energy in 2020, whilst exporting most of the world’s clothes (4). Putting pressure on the fashion industry to reduce its carbon footprint would align with the SDG of taking climate action.
Figure 1: The approximate percentage of global greenhouse gas emissions that are linked to selected emissions points, using figures derived from reading list items 3 and 9.
The fast fashion business model has drawn fierce criticism for its impacts beyond its carbon footprint, the scale of which is highlighted in comparison to other notable emissions points in Figure 1 above. Fast fashion is also associated with excessive water usage, chemical pollution and waste (1). These impacts also disproportionately affect those in low-income countries closest to manufacturing sites (5). This business model contradicts the SDGs of Reducing Inequality, and Clean Water and Sanitation.
Labour conditions in garment factories have also been historically criticised. In 2013, the tragic collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in Dhaka served as a wake-up call to the industry. Infamously, over 1,000 people were killed with thousands more injured. It has been suggested that around 80% of workers in the clothing industry are women. By implementing better working practices, progress could be made in achieving a further three of the SDGs: Good Health and Wellbeing, Gender Equality, and Decent Work and Economic Growth.
Demand for fast fashion has been expected to show continued growth as emerging markets develop tastes like those in the Western world. In a business-as-usual scenario, the fashion industry could alone account for a quarter of the world’s carbon budget (6).
The Beginning of a Culture Shift?
Last Summer, popular reality TV show Love Island partnered with eBay and dressed its contestants in pre-owned garments. The show could previously have been accused of propagating fast fashion by pursuing brand partnerships with the likes of Missguided and Boohoo. However, such a strategic shift from a show which is watched by millions of viewers in the UK each year may prove to be a turning point.
Responsible Consumption and Production is yet another SDG which relates to the current, wasteful clothing industry. But how can we depart from this and transition to something that closer resembles a circular economy?
Idea 1: Buy Items Made to Last
Slow fashion is entirely the opposite of fast fashion. It is associated with high quality, locally sourced raw materials, which are used to produce pieces that last (7). Consumers who engage with slow fashion often perceive its products to be investment pieces that they can wear numerous times. As a result, these products often carry higher price tags, making them less accessible to those with lower disposable income.
Slow fashion products reduce emissions in several ways. Firstly, lower emissions are associated with the distribution of goods due to local production. Less time pressure also means that goods are not expected to be designed, manufactured and distributed in quick time. This means that even items that are transferred long distances can be shipped rather than flown. Transporting a single percentage of products by boat as opposed to plane can reduce carbon emissions by as much as 35% (8). Also, the more an item is worn, the lower its relative carbon footprint overall, as long as you are efficient in washing!
For those who may be interested, the Herald have previously highlighted Scottish brands who have taken steps to improve their sustainability credentials. It is important, though, to acknowledge that slow fashion products may be inaccessible for many low-income households, especially amid the cost-of-living crisis. However, there are other ways to make greener choices when it comes to buying clothes.
Idea 2: Embrace the Circular Clothing Economy
Rental Services
Niche rental services have begun to surface which allow consumers to rent commonly worn pieces of clothing, such as t-shirts and informal dresses e.g., Rent the Runway. These types of services haven’t escaped criticism. Sceptics have argued that emissions linked to the laundering and transportation of goods outweigh the environmental benefits of the circular model. However, analysis of the typical pair of jeans and a t-shirt show that the emissions from these stages tend to be less than 25% of the full life cycle (1). Low carbon innovations in laundering and distribution should reduce their impact further and add to the environmental benefits of rental services. Rental services may be, though, the most costly circular method of clothing consumption.
Buying Second Hand
Second hand clothing – including through charity shopping, vintage and peer-to-peer trading platforms – have become increasingly popular recently. Peer-to-peer apps, such as Depop and Vinted, also require transportation of goods so face similar criticisms that may be levelled at rental services. However, as these services become more popular in an increasingly digital world, there is likely to be scope for regional collection centres that could slash distribution emissions.
Regardless, both second hand and rental models help to extend the lifespan of clothing products and help to reduce waste. As charity shops rely on donations, they will mostly receive medium sizes, meaning that people browsing for other sizes may face difficulties. Peer-to-peer apps widen the choice for everyone, giving more people access to buying second hand clothes.
Upcycling
Upcycling, altering or even repairing clothing products can extend their usage lives. The ‘refashioned’ trend has grown increasingly prominent in recent years. There are plenty of online courses available that you can undertake to learn how to repair or repurpose damaged clothes. The Edinburgh Remakery also hosts regular in-person events where you can learn to repair various types of products, not limited to clothes. Also, keep your eyes peeled for swap events in your local area, where you will be able to exchange clothes that you may no longer wear for fresh garments. In central Edinburgh, Zero Waste Hub’s Swapshop is open six days a week.
Social media also provides an opportunity for goods to be shared. For example, parents of young children often use Facebook to donate their child’s clothes to another family after they no longer need them.
To a Circular Economy…
The clothing industry is associated with an enormous carbon footprint, while the throwaway fast fashion business model has led to significant pollution near manufacturing sites. Usually situated in low-income countries, local communities have had to bear the brunt of these impacts disproportionately. The broader transition to a circular economy will see a shift from this type of wasteful, unjust business model, to one in which we look to prolong the life of products and provide better working conditions. We can all play a part in driving such a change.